Still smiling on aphrodite's island
British influence still lingers in turkish northern cyprus, but it is fond tradition rather than the crass parody that blights the costas.It is found in driving on the left, in english signs on official buildings(And"Car boot sale"Placards), in the familiar cylindrical postboxes(Albeit in unfamiliar bright yellow, as pictured right), but never more so on than in the weather on this particular day.
As stranded cypriot fishermen look glumly out over thick coffee, it is the british expats and visitors alike who delight in this return to their traditional watery element.Wading through the gales in sensible rain gear, they wear a look of satisfied resignation, almost gleeful nostalgia for bank holidays immemorial.The locals don't really mind.They know the sun will return and soon for an average 300 days each year.
Richard the lionheart started the trend for british visits to kyrenia(Known to locals as girne)In 1191 by forcibly capturing the castle.Today's visitors pay for their real estate instead.The balmy temperatures and tasty prices bring them flocking, and the friendliness of the locals keeps them content.Why crusade when you can happily coexist?
Northern cyprus is experiencing a boom.Unfinished buildings gaze longingly at their artist's impressions, aspiring to the glossy finish of the sales hoardings.While some may be due to overextended developers, others are romantic homage to a local custom whereby parents build a home for their son over a period of several years before his marriage.The bride's folks get to furnish it.With new houses come the creature
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There are so many places to eat that a chunky restaurant guide has been published.As villas replace olive groves, cyprus is well aware that its charm can be spoilt and has new building controls in place.
But until the politicians act, nothing can be done about the sad waste of a city like famagusta.From the palm beach hotel terrace stretches a crescent bay of hotels, every one empty since the 1970s and partition.Farthest away is the st george's.At a distance(And that's the only way you can see it)It resembles its namesake in that other torn city facing it across the eastern editerranean, beirut.The island's most renowned hotel, the ledra palace in nicosia, now houses un peacekeepers in the green line buffer zone.
Whatever the politicians do(Or don't), the people know they are on to a good thing on this beautiful island of Aphrodite, and just get on with it.Lawrence durrell in bitter lemons describes the shady"Tree of idleness"Beloved of the languid locals.Outside the spectacular gothic bellapais abbey, competing restaurants fervently but amiably claim the tree as theirs.Centuries of mingling at this mediterranean crossroads have produced numerous cultural collisions.
French cathedrals carry slender minarets and make modernday mosques.There are verigo grapes, named by a turkish child who misheard british troops pronounce them"Very good".And at remote kantara, beneath a venetian fortress clinging to limestone crags, halil welcomes you warmly to lunch in his pineshaded restaurant with an east end"Awright? ".In nicosia, the colonnaded courtyard of b han, a caravanserai for anatolian merchants turned poorhouse, is once again a craft centre with caf the lemonade is homemade and pastry is freshly rolled on marble to make hellim b waferthin toasted cheese parcels.
Details captivate:The"Eyes"To ward off evil emblazoned above doors(As pictured above right), on babies' shawls, or onThelavender bags on hotel pillows;TheLefkara lace patterns designed by da Vinci (who also beefed upThefortifications during his 1481 visit);Thethree doorknockers in Ottoman Nicosia with different tones to announce men, women and children; orThecoded coffee signals of courting couples, sweet for "Hello", bitter for"Goodbye".
Rich colour is everywhere.Midway between the cathedral mosque and othello's tower in old famagusta's goldenwalled city is petek pastanesi, an aladdin's cave of pastries, sweets and cakes.There is colour, too, in the ancient roman mosaics of salamis, whose ruins you can still clamber over.It may not be archaeological best practice, but there is the real thrill of touching the past that is lost at redroped museums like pompeii.Tantalisingly, the political climate keeps a vast area still unexcavated and even more lies under the waves of gazimagusa bay.
Roads vary, but all are passable, though the karpas peninsula merits an offroader to see the deserted beaches where turtles lay their eggs in may, which hatch in july.The roads across the green line have also been passable
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Back in kyrenia harbour(Pictured above left), the muezzin's call to evening prayer floats over the White Pearl Hotel and the Hotel British.On the quayside, wooden tables are matched by wooden working boats no surfeit of ginpalace fibreglass here and at night there is symmetry as people dine at caf table and on deck.Swallows swoop as the dusk settles and lanterns glimmer.Aphrodite would still, its troubles notwithstanding, be pleased with her island.
Where does st Nicholas originate from
The 'father christmas' figure in a flying sleigh is the result of a mixture of norse mythology and the christmas story.
However, santa claus, as any child knows, really exists or at least existed a long time ago and his spirit still lives on.'Santa' actually means 'Saint'(Where we get 'sanctify and santa maria from)And claus(Pronounced klowss)Is the shortened form of the name nicholas.So santa claus is saint nicholas.
Nicholas was born in turkey, was a devout christian and became bishop of myra(Hence his red robes as 'father christmas').He inherited a large fortune from his parents which he gave, in secret, to the poor.Legend has it that he once left three bags of gold in secret for a father who had three daughters but who would be forced to sell them into slavery as he was too poor to marry them off.He did this by dropping the bags down the chimney where they ended up in the fireplace in shoes(Or socks? )Drying there.This is where we get our custom of 'hanging up the stockings' from on christmas eve.As a result of his good life nicholas was made a saint and became the patron saint of poor people and of pawnbrokers hence the pawnbroker sign of three golden balls(Representing the three bags of gold).
Many miracles were attributed to nicholas including stilling a storm at sea, and bringing back to life three boys murdered by a cruel innkeeper.As a result nicholas was made patron saint of sailors and children.
So at christmas, when we give and receive presents as a reminder of the gifts given to the christ child by the wise men, let's not forget that st nicholas's spirit of freely giving in secret lives on in the traditional santa claus.